Really Good Tomato & Onion Chutney

I used to think making chutney from home-grown tomatoes was a bit of a waste of those months toiling in the soil and nurturing weak seedlings into strapping, fruit-bearing plants. As though the only rightful use was in dishes where the tomatoes lay as untouched as possible, so as not to mask their natural beauty.

But this chutney blew all that out the water. I’ve made it for years, and I’m not being funny but it’s got its own fan club. Fine, only within my family, but still. It’s a beaut. I think it’s the nigella seeds that do it. They give it an edge that’s really satisfying.

It’s easy and yields maximum rewards. You can obviously make it with tomatoes you haven’t grown yourself, but regardless, right now - end of September - is the best time to make it as the tomato plants give up their last ripe fruits.

Tomato & Onion Chutney

Makes about 5 jars

• 1.5kg tomatoes, roughly chopped

• 1kg red onion, sliced

• 200ml cider vinegar

• 200g light brown sugar (you can use golden caster sugar but I wouldn’t use white sugar)

• 4 green cardamom pods, crushed to open them

• 1 cinnamon stick

• 3 garlic cloves, crushed

• 2tbsp nigella seeds

• 1 chilli, finely chopped or kept whole (optional)

• 1tbsp oil

Heat the oil over a low-medium heat and sweat the onions for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and garlic, stir and cook for 5 minutes, then add the remaining ingredients. Don’t let the onion or garlic colour. 

If you’re using a chilli, you can add it whole to just impart some flavour and then remove it during the later cooking stage, or you can finely chop it and add it with the onion and garlic. 

Mix well, bring to a boil, put a lid on top and then simmer for an hour. Remove the lid and continue cooking until the mixture thickens and the liquid is almost all evaporated, which can take anything from 30-50 minutes, maybe even another hour. Just keep an eye on it and keep stirring. Try not to let it catch, but if it does just add a good splash of water and scrape the pan base - the caramelised bits will add to the flavour. Unless it’s burnt, in which case pour it all out and if it doesn’t smell burnt, you should be able to salvage some. But just try not to let it burn in the first place. 

Anyway, while it’s cooking, sterilise some jars. You can do it with boiling water - let them steep in some for 5 minutes - but I prefer using the oven. Wash them well, then place in a cool oven. Heat to 150C and once the oven hits temperature, turn it off and remove the jars once safe to do so. 

Pour the chutney into the jars, ideally using a wide funnel, and put the lid on, squeezing it tight. 

I think it’s best left for a couple of weeks to mature, but you can also crack on straight away.